Elmina packs an extraordinary amount of history into a small stretch of Ghana's Central Region coast. Almost everything here circles the same story — centuries of Portuguese, Dutch and British presence, and the fishing town that lived alongside it. Elmina Castle (St. George's Castle), founded by the Portuguese in 1482 and now a UNESCO-listed castle and museum, sits on its promontory above the working harbour, with Fort Coenraadsburg (Fort St. Jago) on the hill opposite. Below, the Elmina Fishing Harbour and the Elmina Fish Market on the Benya Lagoon carry on the daily business of landing fish, busiest at the morning returns and evening departures.
The places differ in mood and scale. The Dutch Cemetery, established in 1806, is a quiet colonial burial ground of about seventy interments, while the Elmina Java Museum tells the very different story of the Belanda Hitam, African soldiers recruited on the Dutch Gold Coast for the Netherlands East Indies Army. Roman Hill offers something else again: a reported 121-step climb to St. Joseph's Minor Basilica, founded in 1880, with views over the town, coastline and salt ponds.