The Upper East Region is where Ghana's craft traditions are still made by hand, in the open, by the people who have always made them. Bolgatanga is the heart of it, and the places gathered here share a common thread: baskets woven from elephant grass, leather goods, smocks, pottery and art, sold and shown by the artisans themselves. If you want to meet makers rather than simply buy souvenirs, this is the corner of Ghana to visit.
They differ in character. Bolgatanga Market is the big, busy central market, held every three days, where crafts sit alongside everyday trading. Bolgatanga Craft Village is a purpose-built craft market and artisan centre, built by the municipal assembly in 2003 and next door to the Upper East Regional Museum, which makes it easy to pair shopping with a little context. Baba Tree Basket Company is a design-led weaving company and artisan community, known for handwoven Bolga baskets, lampshades and wall pieces. Further out in Sirigu, SWOPA — the Sirigu Women's Organisation for Pottery and Art — is a women's cooperative with a visitor centre, gallery, workshop and guesthouse.